Old 02-05-2007, 05:44 AM   #1
Devil 505
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Default Night Shots

I took these Saturday evening. All were rejected for being underexposed. Do you think they are salvageable?
http://www.railpictures.net/viewreject.php?id=334247
iso 100, 10 second exposure at f 3.5

http://www.railpictures.net/viewreject.php?id=334245
iso 400, 4 seconds at f 5.6

http://www.railpictures.net/viewreject.php?id=334244
iso 400, 3 seconds at f 5.6

any help would be appreciated.

Dave
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Old 02-05-2007, 05:52 AM   #2
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The second shot looks salvageable if you up the brigthness about 7% and add maybe 12% Contrast.

The other two lack a dedicated light source, making the overall lighting discombobulated, meaning that some areas of the photo might end up washed out by the time you get the lighting right on the train.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:49 AM   #3
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Default Reworked

Hi Dave,

I did a quick rework on image 2.

I had to lift the exposure on the locomotive by 1.5 stops.

Sadly the shot is not very sharp, look at the lamps on the over bridge and the loco numbers, a bit fuzzy I think.

As your subject was static, try stopping down another stop or two, that will increase your depth of field and allow for any focus errors.

Because it's not that sharp I think even with the rework acceptance is unlikely.

Alan
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Old 02-05-2007, 12:10 PM   #4
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Wink Underexposed?

I didn't think the exposure was too bad, but I personally didn't like the orange / red colour cast. Alan's reworked image was a definite improvement on the original (just look at the colour of the snow - it's whiter).
I always aim for 'white light' when processing my night shots, and if there are different colour temperatures all over the shot, then I process different areas in different ways and blend the pictures into one. I guess colour temperatures on night shots is down to personal preference though.

This is my first post to these forums, so I hope my comments aren't out of place.
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Old 02-05-2007, 04:43 PM   #5
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thanks for the input I guess I'll head out there and try it again.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:42 PM   #6
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Some tips, try and stay at iso100 and try using F10, then adjust your exposure length from there.
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalrailfan
Some tips, try and stay at iso100 and try using F10, then adjust your exposure length from there.
thanks for the advice I'll give it a shot.
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:01 PM   #8
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Just thought I' would play with #2 myself...

Not that much different from the above edit... less color too.

I'd try a reshoot, you have some great advice above. Good luck!
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Old 02-07-2007, 04:24 AM   #9
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I gave number two a wizz through PhotoShop to see what I could manage. The shot could of done with a bit more time exposure wise, the detail in the darker parts of the shot are there but not enough to salvage, it was close but just not as much as I would have liked.

For night shots if you have the time use the lowest ISO setting on the camera it keeps the noise from the image sensor down not that your images were suffering badly from noise. I used Noise ninja very lightly on the attached image for what I thought was a significant improvement with very little detail lost in the process.

Cheers,

Christine.
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:13 AM   #10
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Default Colour Temperature

Hi Christine,

I think you've done a good job there, nice to seen you tackled the colour balance. I often wonder whats best for night shots, a truly corrected balance or leave a little bit of warmth in the shot?

I think I prefer a bit of warmth, but not as much as I left in my rework.

Noise Ninja is a great little programme, also worth a try is Imagenomic's Noiseware Pro which works as a PhotoShop plugin.

I am going to try a couple of my night shots fully colour corrected and compare with my normal partial correcting.

Alan
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:08 AM   #11
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Default Colour Balance

Hi Christine,

I've just tried a couple of reworks on night shots fully colour corrected.

They're much better than partial corrected.

Thanks for the inspiration.


Alan
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switched out
I gave number two a wizz through PhotoShop to see what I could manage. The shot could of done with a bit more time exposure wise, the detail in the darker parts of the shot are there but not enough to salvage, it was close but just not as much as I would have liked.

For night shots if you have the time use the lowest ISO setting on the camera it keeps the noise from the image sensor down not that your images were suffering badly from noise. I used Noise ninja very lightly on the attached image for what I thought was a significant improvement with very little detail lost in the process.

Cheers,

Christine.
Your rework looks very nice. I will definitely put everyone's advice to use the next time I'm out at night.

When bracketing exposures, what is the better thing to do, keep a uniform shutter speed and change apertures or keep a uniform aperture and change shutter speeds?
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil 505
Your rework looks very nice. I will definitely put everyone's advice to use the next time I'm out at night.

When bracketing exposures, what is the better thing to do, keep a uniform shutter speed and change apertures or keep a uniform aperture and change shutter speeds?

I'm not a night shot expert, but I'd keep the aperture the same and change shutter speeds. Changing the shutter speeds on a still subject will really only effect how light or dark the image is. Changing the aperture will change depth of field and other factors in addition to controlling light. The fewer variables, the better, just like calculus!
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:14 PM   #14
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well.... shutter speed...."a little fuzzy" means camera shake to me, more than poor focus.... A tripod is the answer, mostly, but when one of those things goes by, the ground also shakes, so a high shutter speed is the only fix.. Of coarse, a high shutter speed means less light, damned if you do and damned if you don't, that is why night photography is so challenging... You have to bring your own light, multiple slaved flashes. Sounds like fun though.. What appears to be flare in the lighted numbers is another problem, unknown. Just my thoughts... Ed
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:48 PM   #15
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Default Night Shots

Hi

Always use a tripod, a nice heavy one. Bracket by shutter speed, try to use f8-ish as it will reduce the effect of any focus errors, also it's the best resolving stop for most lenses.

If you can, set the mirror lock up on your SLR, that's another source of vibration removed.

Use a cable release to trip the shutter, if you have no release, try using the self timer.

Most of all keep trying till you get it right, then remember how you did it!

Alan
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Old 02-07-2007, 04:40 PM   #16
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Default Night shots

Another pointer when night photting is to carefully watch the position in your frame of strong light sources. Very often, a strong light source just outside of your picture frame will flare into the shot and ruin it. This problem gets worse if you are using a low quality lens, but even with top notch lenses this problem is only reduced and is not erradicated. My solution to this is to alter your position or angle to include the light source rather than have it just outside of the shot. See the attached example and check out the light at the top of the shot.

By the way, Christine's rework with white light is just how I like to see night shots processed - top job!
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