Old 10-26-2017, 08:29 PM   #1
Joseph Cermak
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Default Blur-Pan Shots: What's the secret?

Hi all,
I have been attempting a pan shot fro some time, but they all seem to be rejected for being blurry. They seem to me to have the cab in focus which would be the point to me. Am I missing something here? Any tips for how to get these shots? Thanks.

http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...49&key=9138618
http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...35&key=9001739
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:31 PM   #2
RobJor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Cermak View Post
Hi all,
I have been attempting a pan shot fro some time, but they all seem to be rejected for being blurry. They seem to me to have the cab in focus which would be the point to me. Am I missing something here? Any tips for how to get these shots? Thanks.

http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...49&key=9138618
http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...35&key=9001739

I don't even try but I think there was a prior thread with fair comments. Looking at yours, and what I Usually see I think you are better off if the subject is square to your camera position and directly in front of you. From a photo point of view I think you need more than ballast to convey a sense of motion and good if train is on track nearest you. When I was going to try pan shots I found some tutorials online.
Bob
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Old 10-26-2017, 11:30 PM   #3
miningcamper1
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Originally Posted by Joseph Cermak View Post
Hi all,
I have been attempting a pan shot fro some time, but they all seem to be rejected for being blurry. They seem to me to have the cab in focus which would be the point to me. Am I missing something here? Any tips for how to get these shots? Thanks.

http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...49&key=9138618
http://www.railpictures.net/viewreje...35&key=9001739
Both need more sharpening IMO. The first has some distortion making the radiator end look too large relative to the cab end. It's unlevel as well. The shadow in the second one- will the screener like or dislike?

The secret to success with these? Lots of practice, and even then there will probably be many to be deleted. I only shot a few- maybe I'll try this one here someday with a new scan.
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:06 PM   #4
bigbassloyd
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Distance is the key. By no means am I a good panner, but the farther away you are, the better. IF you're attempting to do a pan at the wide end of a wide angle lens, you're already setup for failure due to the lens characteristics (i.e. distortion, blur, etc.).

Image © Loyd Lowry
PhotoID: 578873
Photograph © Loyd Lowry


This one was at 47mm using my 24-105.

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Old 10-27-2017, 04:00 PM   #5
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Distance is the key. By no means am I a good panner, but the farther away you are, the better. IF you're attempting to do a pan at the wide end of a wide angle lens, you're already setup for failure due to the lens characteristics (i.e. distortion, blur, etc.).

Image © Loyd Lowry
PhotoID: 578873
Photograph © Loyd Lowry


This one was at 47mm using my 24-105.

Loyd L.
Quite good, but why so dark?
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Old 10-27-2017, 05:47 PM   #6
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Quite good, but why so dark?
Looks good hanging on my wall.

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Old 10-27-2017, 05:51 PM   #7
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Definitely a good point about being further away. Any recommendations on what is a good shutter speed to have a good amount of blur but still be able to hold the camera freehand?
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:38 PM   #8
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Definitely a good point about being further away. Any recommendations on what is a good shutter speed to have a good amount of blur but still be able to hold the camera freehand?
The rule of thumb I always heard was to use 1/xx, xx being the focal length of the (full frame) lens. Some people are better at hand-holding a camera than others.

1/15 will give you nice blur, but probably a lot of failures.
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:18 PM   #9
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Definitely a good point about being further away. Any recommendations on what is a good shutter speed to have a good amount of blur but still be able to hold the camera freehand?
1/15th to 1/25th is about all I'm good for. The masters can pull off 1/10th and slower though.

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Old 10-27-2017, 09:28 PM   #10
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Kenyon KS 4x4 Gyro Stabilizer- just $3460.00 and you're good to go!
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